Saturday, December 27, 2008

Cobras and Elephants, Oh My!

After a six hour van ride we arrived in the city of Jaipur from Agra. We arrived at night but I was immediately surprised. Jaipur is by far more Westernized than the other cities we've visited. On the road in I noticed a McDonald's (they don't sell beef because cows are sacred), a Domino's Pizza, a Subway sandwich stop, and several American stores (Nike, etc.). However a Nike store apparently doesn't equal a stop light at major intersections. In old Jaipur where we are staying the government has decided to allow the people to manage traffic themselves. Which with over 5 million residents it is an interesting mixture of extreme order and extreme chaos all on its own.

In 1853, when Prince of Wales visited Jaipur, the whole city was painted in Pink color to welcome him. Still, the neat and broadly laid-out avenues, painted in pink provide a magical charm to the city. Hawa Mahal (right) was built 1799 in the form of the crown of Kirshna, the Hindu god. It forms part of the City Palace and extends the women's chambers. Its original intention was to allow royal ladies to observe everyday life in the street below without being seen. As in tradition Hindu women did not show themselves in public. It has five stories and is constructed of red and pink sandstone. The side facing the street outside the palace complex has 953 small windows, and the breeze (hawa) which circulates through these windows gives the palace its name, and keeps it cool even in hot months.
The streets just below are bustling with businesses, street vendors, foot traffic, and snake charmers. Yes, snake charmers. Indian snake charming families have for centuries caught the infamous and dangerous King cobra snakes in the wild. The milk them of their venom and make them unable to create more. Then they play music on an instrument called a pungi which hypnotises the snake. Hinduism has long held serpents to be sacred; the animals are related to Nagas, and many gods are pictured under the protection of the cobra. Indians thus considered snake charmers to be holy men who were influenced by the gods.

Afterwards we proceeded to the Amber Fort. This magnificent fort is more of a palace, built from red sandstone and white marble, it is divided into four main sections each with its own courtyard. Entry through the Suraj Pol (Sun Gate) is done by elephant. One would think that such a sturdy animal would provide a sturdy ride. However, there are few roller coaster I would NOT revisit and the elephant ride is at the top. This is partly due to the fact that I rocked so far back and forth I felt as though I were about to fall off, and partly because our "driver" would often hit the poor elephant with a wooden stick upon its skull (I've seen Dumbo too many times to consider that okay). We of course... took pictures.




Amber was built by the Kachwaha Rajputs who reigned for over 800 years. The fort sight was chosen for protection and construction began in 1592. The sight housed and entertained many powerful families from this era in Inidan history.

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