Hinduism

The country of India is eighty percent Hindu. Hinduism is one of the world's oldest religions and is very diverse and interesting. Being that eighty percent of the country are Hindus I thought that I should devote some space to the basic understanding of these beliefs.

These are notes and thoughts organized from conversations with local people in combination with things I've read in online articles. Please feel free to correct (by commenting) anything I've incorrectly understood.

The earliest evidence for elements of the Hindu faith dates back as far as 3000 BCE (that is 3000 years before the birth of Christ). Archaeologicaldigs in the Punjab and Indus valleys (right) have revealed the existence of urban cultures. Archaeological work continues on other sites at Kalibangan, Lothal and Surkotada.
The digs have revealed signs of early rituals and worship. For example, a large bath has been found, with side rooms and statues which could be evidence of early purification rites. Elsewhere, a large number statues of goddesses have been discovered which could suggest the practice of early fertility rites.
This early Indian culture is sometimes called the Indus Valley civilisation.
Contrary to popularbelief, Hindus recognise one God, Brahman, the creater of universe and all existance. After Brahman, the creator, there are three other principal gods: Brahma the creator, Vishnu, who preserves the universe, and Shiva, who destroys the evil in the universe.

Brahma

Brahma is the Creator. However, Brahma is not worshipped in the same way as other gods because it is believed that his work - that of creation - has been done. Hindus worship other expressions of Brahman (not Brahma), which take a variety of forms.
Hindus are often classified into three groups according to which form of Brahman they worship:
Those who worship Vishnu (the preserver) and Vishnu‘s important incarnations (rebirths) Rama, Krishna and Narasimha; those who worship Shiva (the destroyer), and those who worship the Mother Goddess, Shakti, also called Parvati, Mahalakshmi, Durga or Kali.

Vishnu
Vishnu, the preserver is believed to be linked to a very early sun god and is considered by his worshippers to be the greatest among the gods. He is also referred to as Narayana.Vishnu preserves and protects the universe and has appeared on the earth through his avatars (incarnations) to save humankind from natural disasters or from tyranny. The most well-known avatars are Rama (see Ramayana), Krishna, who destroyed the wicked and established a new order, Buddha, the founder of Buddhism, and Kalki. Vishnu is represented in sculpture and painting in human form, often painted blue.

Shiva
The god Shiva is part of the Hindu Trinity, along with Vishnu and Brahma. He is considered to be everything by those who worship him: creator, preserver and destroyer. In Shiva, the opposites meet. Shiva the destroyer is a necessary part of the trinity because, without destruction, there can be no recreation. His city is Varanasi, and any Hindu who dies there is believed to go straight to heaven. Shiva is the source of both good and evil who combines many contradictory elements.
In pictures and sculptures, Shiva is represented as Lord of the Dance who controls the movement of the universe. He is also associated with fertility. Shiva has many consorts, including Kali, often portrayed as wild and violent, Parvati, reknowned for her gentleness, and Durga, a powerful goddess created from the combined forces of the anger of several gods.

Most Hindu temples are closed to people who are not Hindu, however one we visted in Jaipur was open to people of all religions. Built in 1985 the Birla Lakshmi Narayan Temple is made of one hundred percent pure marble. It is a Vishnu temple where people can worship Vishnu and his gods and goddesses. A beatiful structure pictures were only permitted outside.

Cobras and Elephants, Oh My!

After a six hour van ride we arrived in the city of Jaipur from Agra. We arrived at night but I was immediately surprised. Jaipur is by far more Westernized than the other cities we've visited. On the road in I noticed a McDonald's (they don't sell beef because cows are sacred), a Domino's Pizza, a Subway sandwich stop, and several American stores (Nike, etc.). However a Nike store apparently doesn't equal a stop light at major intersections. In old Jaipur where we are staying the government has decided to allow the people to manage traffic themselves. Which with over 5 million residents it is an interesting mixture of extreme order and extreme chaos all on its own.

In 1853, when Prince of Wales visited Jaipur, the whole city was painted in Pink color to welcome him. Still, the neat and broadly laid-out avenues, painted in pink provide a magical charm to the city. Hawa Mahal (right) was built 1799 in the form of the crown of Kirshna, the Hindu god. It forms part of the City Palace and extends the women's chambers. Its original intention was to allow royal ladies to observe everyday life in the street below without being seen. As in tradition Hindu women did not show themselves in public. It has five stories and is constructed of red and pink sandstone. The side facing the street outside the palace complex has 953 small windows, and the breeze (hawa) which circulates through these windows gives the palace its name, and keeps it cool even in hot months.
The streets just below are bustling with businesses, street vendors, foot traffic, and snake charmers. Yes, snake charmers. Indian snake charming families have for centuries caught the infamous and dangerous King cobra snakes in the wild. The milk them of their venom and make them unable to create more. Then they play music on an instrument called a pungi which hypnotises the snake. Hinduism has long held serpents to be sacred; the animals are related to Nagas, and many gods are pictured under the protection of the cobra. Indians thus considered snake charmers to be holy men who were influenced by the gods.

Afterwards we proceeded to the Amber Fort. This magnificent fort is more of a palace, built from red sandstone and white marble, it is divided into four main sections each with its own courtyard. Entry through the Suraj Pol (Sun Gate) is done by elephant. One would think that such a sturdy animal would provide a sturdy ride. However, there are few roller coaster I would NOT revisit and the elephant ride is at the top. This is partly due to the fact that I rocked so far back and forth I felt as though I were about to fall off, and partly because our "driver" would often hit the poor elephant with a wooden stick upon its skull (I've seen Dumbo too many times to consider that okay). We of course... took pictures.

Amber was built by the Kachwaha Rajputs who reigned for over 800 years. The fort sight was chosen for protection and construction began in 1592. The sight housed and entertained many powerful families from this era in Inidan history.

Taj Mahal

Agra was our next stop. After a long and terrible train ride (if you really want details email me, otherwise I'll spare the disgust), we arrived in the ancient city of Agra. Agra was once the capital of India during the Mughal dynasty. Although there are many ancient buildings and forts and what have you, the Taj Mahal is by far the most famous and superior of all architecture.

The story behind the Taj is well worth knowing. In 1631, Shah Jahan, emperor during the Mughal empire's period of greatest prosperity, was griefstricken when his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal, died during the birth of their fourteenth child. Yes fourteenth! Legend states that as his wife was dying she made him promise two things. First that he would build her somewhere to lie as beautiful as thier love. Secondly, he promised to never bare another child with another woman. The construction of Taj Mahal begun soon after Mumtaz's death with the principal mausoleum completed in 1648. The entire building was constructed simply to hold his dead wife's remains as a testimony to their love. The entire place is made out of white marble and is absolutely exquisite.

All I can say ladies is, we all need a Shah Jahan! Enjoy the pictures.

Day Four an- Varanasi (Var-na-see)

After a morning domestic flight, we arrived in Varanasi with very little problem. Varanasi is a large village right along the Ganges (Gan-gees) River. The Ganges River is considered a sacred places to the people of Hindu Religion. They wash themselves in this river believing that it washes away bad karma. This is also the spot of the holiest of ceremonies. Many Hindu people are cremated right along the river bank.

After checking in at the hotel we were off to our first sight. We visited the Mother India Temple. This temple was built as a symbol of India's strength and wisdom. It is a marble physical map of the country of India. It is interesting because it is one of few Hindu temples that welcome worshippers of all religions. It is also the only one that allowed me take pictures.

After visting several temples (or I should say driving by), it was off for another bicycle rickshaw ride down to the Ganges River to watch the Hindu evening ceremony. This time Ms. Kessinger was smart enough to have her camera ready. Here is a taste of what that experience is like. I wish I had a way to also share with you the smells of the ride. The various spices brewing, insense, and teas make a sometimes overwhelming aroma. (I'm having trouble uploading the video, its a large file. I'll post it when I find a quicker connection)

The following morning we floated on a row boat along the Ganges River where we witnessed many people bathing away their sins. Workers were also cleaning laundry in the river using the same methods they have for centuries. From the river you almost see a back view of Varnasai coupled with a very intimate portrait of the people and culture. These are all from the river tour.

From Varanasi we travel to Agra via an overnight train which was an experience all on its own.

Day Three - Delhi

Wow! What an experience Delhi has been.
After a long night’s sleep and an early morning run, we were on our way. There are eight of us and a baby traveling together so our tour guide has provided a large vehicle for us. The first thing you notice on the streets of Delhi (Dell-ee) is the sheer number of automobiles. With a population of 12.8 million (that’s about three times the number of people in Chicago) it’s no wonder there are so many wheels for transportation. Added to cars are more scooters and bicycles than imaginable (not to mention the pedestrians) and they have these small gas powered bright green taxis that are no more than a glamorized golf carts that whip in and out of traffic and between vehicles at a insane pace. Glancing out my window in the van I happened to notice this one and thought the bumper sticker was funny. When I asked out tour guide to comment on the drivers in India he said, “In India we rely on three things: good beeps (horn), good brakes, and good luck.” I believe this whole heartedly as everyone seems to do nothing but move about as they choose and honk at one another. It’s probably a good thing there are so many vehicles as no one can move very fast in the congestion.

Delhi hasn’t always been the capital of India, but it has played a huge role in Indian history. Many have invaded and several other empires have captured this Northern Indian city. There have been at least eight cities founded it what is considered Delhi now. The old saying that whoever establishes a new city at Delhi will lose it has come true every time. Delhi officially became the capital after winning independence from England in 1947.
Our first stop was in Old Delhi (the seventh city created) at the Jama Masjid. The Jama Masjid is the largest mosque in India. Mosques are the Muslim places of worship. This mosque was started in 1644; it wasn’t completed until 1658. It has three entry ways one each on the south, north, and west sides. The forth side (as pictured) is the direction in which Muslims pray (toward Mecca). You must remove your shoes before entering a mosque, and all mosques have a water source as Muslims are required to bathe their hands before prayer. Inside Eliot got scammed by some kids who charmed him into taking a picture with them and then charged him for it (he wants it noted he only paid 10 rupees about 25cents). In the picture he is holding his pocket because in a movie we recently saw, Slumdog Millionaire (which I highly recommend) kids often pick pocketed tourists.

Outside the Jama Masjid we enjoyed the ride of a lifetime on a bicycle rickshaw. Flipping through Old Delhi’s narrow alley ways and byways we adventured into the shopping district on the back of a bike. The market sold everything imaginable from fruits and vegetables to beautiful fabrics, textiles, even paper. The driver simply must have quads of steel as most of the ride was uphill and neither of us is light. These are pictures taken along the way. I wish I had thought to take video of this crazy adventure, as there is nothing like a jolted stop for a passing tomato cart.

Next we visited the Raj Ghat. This is the final resting spot of Mahatma Gandhi, India’s most famous and noble leader. This park is absolutely serene, beautiful, and peaceful. Although, I'm sure Ghandi would be far to humble of a man to want something this elaborate in his name. Shortly after liberation from English rule Gandhi was shot. This area serves as a memorial to their noble leader.

Afterwards we went to the Qutb Minar; it was built to celebrate the defeat of the Hindu Kingdom in 1193. The tower has five stories and stands 73 meters high. The first three are made of red sandstone, the fourth and fifth are of marble and sandstone. Standing for nearly a thousand years the tower has only a slight tilt. They are currently making some renovations to fix this tilt. The surrounding buildings were originally a Hindu facility which upon defeat the ornate carvings were destroyed. I took pictures of the remaining original structure too.

^----- These is the original Hindu carvings that were defaced by the Muslims.

Finally, we visited a bazaar and got in some good shopping. They had BEAUTIFUL Kashmir rugs for sale. I had to control myself and not purchase the thousand dollar rug. Sorry dad, I guess Christmas won’t be quite so merry!

Some interesting things I’ve noticed:

1) For some reason diet drinks are more expensive than regular.

2) To take pictures in the mosque it was 200 Rupees (about 4 dollars)

3) Security exists but as in the picture seems to be a bit of a front. Some are metal detectors made out of wood, with no electricity run to them.

4) Rules are often posted, but not often followed (by the locals that is).

5) Men both shower, and use the bathroom outside, often on the side of major roads.

Tomorrow - Varanasi

Day Two

Just got to New Delhi, and after a long (12 hour nap) I think I'm finally adjusted to the time zone difference. They are 12 hours ahead. Today we're off to see the Red Fort and go on a bicycle rickshaw ride. I can't hardly wait to see more than the surrounding airport.
Will post pics and details tonight!

Day One

We spent today in London. Our plane landed here at about 9AM London time (2AM Chicago time), exhausted we still managed to back in a lot of tourist attractions. I'll post just a few pictures now while I'm sitting the the airport waiting for our next flight. Then I'll explain them when we get to New Delhi tomorrow when I have more time.

Welcome Students, Friends, and Visitors:
This page will be devoted to updating our vacation photos as we discover India. You can write to us and keep track of our journey here.
Let the countdown begin.
Ms. Kessinger